Motorcycling in the Emerald Isle – make life a ride. Part 4.
Each time I have been to Ireland I have made the trip through Killarney National Park and onto the Healy Pass.This trip was to be no exception.
The Healy Pass is beautiful and takes you over the county line between Kerry and Cork. The last time I was on the pass on a bike was in June 2023 on a BMW F800R.
On that occasion I was heading for an overnight stay in Clonakilty. Previous to that, in 2022 my wife and I had spent a week in Kenmare after staying in Larne and then Donegal and whilst in Kenmare we had driven over the pass and spent some time in Bantry.
The weather tempted me
There was a museum in a town called Foynes that I was keen to go to on this trip (more of that later). But with the prospect of fine weather for my first day in Kilkee a trip to the Healy Pass was irresistible. Additionally I knew the roads and knew I could make a very decent route down there.
After a good breakfast at Lynch’s B&B I made the 20 minute trip to the ferry at Killimer. The crossing took me across the Shannon estuary to Tarbert.
Decent ferry service and good value
The ferry service I used at the start of this days ride was Killimer/Tarbert ferry service and it’s one I have used many times. Although you can book in advance you can also just turn up and drive on. Even if a crossing has just been missed it’s probably never more than a 30 minute wait for the next one.
The ferry is decent value as well at about €18 for a return crossing. The alternative is to travel via Limerick and add some 85 miles or so to the journey each way.
It’s a cracking good service and has been in operation since 1969 and it’s actually part of the designated Wild Atlantic Way route.
It seemed that in no time at all I had crossed the Shannon estuary and was on my way again.
Heading for the National Park
After leaving the ferry I headed for Listowel, skirted Tralee and then made my way down to Killarney.
After Killarney it was on towards Kenmare via the National Park to take in some magnificent scenery and roads. In particular I was looking forward to the road that would take me towards and through Molls Gap. I knew it was a delight and a joy to ride a motorbike on.
None of the roads on this route were new to me. On previous trips I had stayed in Killarney and also in Listowel a couple of times. Knowing the roads in advance just added to my expectation levels and I wasn’t to be disappointed.
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Killarney National Park and Ladies View
I was in the National Park within about an hour of leaving the ferry at Tarbert. The weather was good, the roads were clear and I was loving the day. I stopped at the viewing point known as Ladies View for some pictures, which you can see in the picture gallery below.
The views here are just magnificent.
It’s only a dozen miles out of Killarney and for good reasons is one of the most photographed views in Ireland. Apparently it’s named Ladies View because of the admiration of the view given by Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting during her visit to Ireland in 1861.
I stopped again a little further on to enjoy more stunning views (and to get the drone out). Open the picture gallery below and see what you think.
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Heading for the Healy Pass
After the National Park it was on towards and through the pretty town of Kenmare. Then it was onto Killaha, Coornagillagh and Lauragh making sure not to miss the left turn off the R571 onto the R574 and towards the Pass itself.
I would say the road that leads to the Pass ought to be ridden with a degree of caution. The surface is generally decent and there are a reasonable amount of passing places but the views are truly captivating and it’s all too easy to be distracted.
Averting your eyes from the road is never a good thing, especially when the drop off the road is one way only!
The Healy Pass cuts through the Caha mountain range and was created in 1847. It was built during the Irish famine years to help move foodstuffs and prevent starvation. Timothy Michael Healy was a politician from Cork who served as the first governor general of the Irish Free State and the pass is named after him.
Never under estimate the magic of a memory. A life full of great memories is a rich one
The American author Ellie Lieberman is credited with saying: Never under estimate the magic of a memory. A life full of great memories is a rich one. We can all take our pick about sayings and quotes that mean something or that resonate with us but that’s one that I am inclined to agree with.
I can barely imagine a life without travel, and although in reality I have seen so little of the world I suppose it’s a true contradiction or paradox to say I have also seen plenty.
Doing is better than not doing
Returning to the Healy Pass is always one of those occasions that provides great memories and reminds me that getting up and ‘doing’ is always a better option than not doing.
I really do find the place magnificent. Fortunately there’s the bonus of a shop just a half mile or so after the end of the Pass which is ideal for refreshments before turning round and doing it all again.
In my case the refreshments were a coffee and a packet of Tayto’s.
I would say without hesitation if you get chance to do drive or ride The Healy Pass – just do it.
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Back to Kilkee
After the absolute joy and satisfaction of riding the Healy Pass again, it was time to head back to Kilkee. I made my way back via pretty much the same route I had taken to get there and so headed for Tarbert and across the Shannon estuary.
My round trip had been about 220 miles and had made for a full day. A bite to eat and a couple of pints of Guinness ended another long but superb days motorcycling in this magnificent country.
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Why go to Foynes?
On a couple of previous trips I had been through the town of Foynes in the county of Limerick. On each occasion I had seen signs for a flying boat museum and have always fancied calling in there. Circumstances; on previous trips had got in the way of making a visit. One of the reasons I had based myself in Kilkee on this trip was specifically so that I could make a visit to the museum.
From my accommodation if I took the ferry across the Shannon again it would be about 20 miles and 80 minutes or so, which is the route I opted for. A nice bonus was that the Shannon Estuary road that ran pretty much from the ferry port at Tarbert to the museum at Foynes was a decent and enjoyable road to ride.
However after my visit to the museum I made the return journey a longer one and came back via an 80 mile loop around the estuary rather than taking the Shannon Ferry across it.
The images below were taken on the way to Foynes
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Famous Foynes and the Flying Boat Museum
Foynes has its place in aviation history. The first transatlantic flights were operated by Pan American Airways from Foynes and services flew to New York, Southampton, Montreal, Pool and Lisbon.
Those flights were made by ‘flying boats’. I suppose as a child I always had a fascination with flight, was a keen model maker and an enthusiastic member of the Air Cadets, even now I am still easily drawn to all things aeronautical. The fact that one of my favourite Airfix models from my childhood was a model of a flying boat a Short Sunderland made a visit to the museum an absolute no must do for me.
Fascinating place
The museum itself is just quite superb. Good parking, super friendly staff and a well set out story supported by a fine range of exhibits made for a fascinating and satisfying time.
If you have a couple of hours to spare I’d be surprised if you didn’t enjoy this place.
The short introductory film and then the full size replica of the Yankee Clipper are just brilliant.
The exhibition is so good that you can almost taste the glamour and thrill of airline travel in that era. A quick read of an article published in Tatler about that glamorous era of travel does a good job of painting the picture – you can read that article here.
The lady I met at reception was really helpful and allowed me to leave my helmet and heavy motorcycle jacket in a side room.
We had a pleasant chat together about our respective younger years in Liverpool (in her case) and Manchester (in my case) before I headed to the exhibition.
You can read more about the museum by clicking this link
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Back to Lynch’s, a pint of orange and a packet of Tayto’s
Satisfied with my visit to the Foynes museum I made a steady journey back to Kilkee heading for Kilcornan, Dooradoyle in Co. Tipperary and then onto Bunratty. Ennistymon and Quilty in Co. Clare.
I didn’t quite have time to wander onto the beaches there but I had read about it previously and it all sounded pretty wonderful (see this article).
The colourful pictures in the gallery below below were taken in the small village of Doonbeg.
Garrihy’s Bar
I made one last stop before getting back to my accommodation in Kilkee. I pulled up at Garrihy’s Bar on the N67 – the road that runs between Kilkee and Killimar. I’d say if you want to sample a traditional Irish hostelry with friendly locals and staff this one absolutely ticks the boxes!
My trip was drawing to an end, and there was so much that I saw during this trip that I wanted to find out more about.
Signs that intrigued me included: sheep racing; Set dancing, as well as a sign for a pub that claimed to be the only Star Wars themed pub in the world, which seems to be a heck of a claim.
Whilst I have no real knowledge of Star Wars and no particular interest in it, how I wish now that I had turned back to that pub to check it out.
Ah well maybe next time.
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Home tomorrow
It had been another good day. My trip to the museum had more than met my expectations and I had enjoyed my afternoon ride around the Shannon estuary and the pretty villages I passed through. But of course all good things come to an end.
This trip had been really enjoyable but tomorrow would be time to head for Dublin and home.
I called to Hickies Bar in Kilkee for a beer and a bite to eat (nothing exotic but a decent gastro burger and chips). Then it was back to my accommodation to pack up and be ready to head for Dublin straight after breakfast the following day (Friday).
Dodgy weather forecast
The forecast wasn’t looking good for the morning with rain predicted for much of my journey, although I couldn’t really grumble if it were to rain for the whole of my journey back to Dublin.
Taking account of the number times I have been in Ireland which now totals about five weeks of biking and about three weeks of driving, I reckon I have not seen rain for something in excess of 90% of the time I have been there – which is something of a result.
There are just three pictures below from my evening in Kilkee.
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Heading for Dublin and home
I took breakfast earlier than on previous days and I was done, packed up, bike loaded and on the road for about 08:40am.
The first 90 miles or so were done on ‘A’ roads and then the rest on what turned out to be, for the most part, a pretty quiet motorway (the M7).
Not surprisingly traffic was heavy as I approached the outskirts of Dublin and my concentration levels were high in order to make sure I didn’t miss the Dublin Port tunnel. The tunnel took me on the M50 and to within a stone’s throw of the port.
Happily the rain didn’t materialise and temperatures had stayed around a steady 21/22c – so a nice end to a nice trip on this side of the water,
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery that can be clicked or scrolled through.
Comfortable seat and calm water
Although the ferry was busy (not surprising really on a Friday) there were only eight bikes in total. As ever bikes were on first and I was settled into a comfortable seat with coffee and cake before the first car passengers made it to the Stena Lounge.
The crossing was smooth and on time. The only delay being on disembarkation due to a car breaking down close to the ramps off the boat. But with the border control posts unmanned I was through and on my way in no time. I made one stop to message my wife to let her know what time I expected to be home and that was it.
In fact I made really good time and reined in some 20 minutes on the forecast time, completing my journey to Manchester in less than two hours. I had rain twice on the route home but I could see on the weather radar that I was going to be pretty much in front of it around Abergele and then maybe about 10 to 15 minutes’ worth of light rain around the Manchester Airport area. In neither case was it heavy enough to merit pausing for waterproofs.
Another fine trip
All in all it had been another really enjoyable and memorable motorcycle trip. The F900 had been superb – I came back with a couple of things in mind to do with the bike before the next trip but I’ll post up about those in due course.
As ever I hope the posts about this trip have provided enjoyable reading and that the pictures have been worth looking at.
Clicking any image will open a picture gallery with the last pictures from the trip. Once open they can be clicked or scrolled through.
