Wonderful Scottish lochs, coastlines & towns – 1600 miles part 1.

Only a few weeks had passed since my last 1,600-mile Scotland motorcycle road trip I was ready to head off again.

Although I decided to head back to Scotland this was to be a pretty different trip (click here to see last trip) In previous years, I have typically made at least one European trip often spending between two to three weeks touring Europe.  My accident in June (2025) led to cancelling my planed Iberian trip. Any sort of trip last year was simply impossible.

But jumping forward to May (2026) saw me complete my first ‘big’ ride since the 2025 accident.

Although its effects remain part of daily life, shorter trips and a gentler pace make riding possible again. However with its DCT gearbox the Honda CMX removes some of the physical effort of biking. Because of this I have been able to continue biking.

Heading north – from home to Port Patrick

My journey north began during what felt like an incredible British summer heatwave. By early morning the temperature was climbing and it was obvious a warm day was on the cards. The first stretch of the journey on the motorway made quick work of the miles to Kendal before I turned for the quieter A-roads.

Penrith, Carlisle and Gretna slipped by with the route became increasingly scenic and with ever decreasing traffic, as I passed through Crocketford and New Galloway.

By the time I rolled into my overnight destination of Portpatrick, the heat was still intense but the sea breeze brought a welcome relief.

Mount Stewart hotel

Although the Mount Stewart Hotel is located high above Portpatrick’s pretty harbour, it’s well placed for riders exploring south-west Scotland and I enjoyed my stay there. The views across the Irish Sea are superb. With comfortable rooms and a decent restaurant it proved to be an ideal overnight stop.

Picture set 1

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The road to Tighnabruaich

Almost as soon as I had left Portpatrick, the ride felt enjoyable. The early morning damp coastal air gave way to open farmland around Glenluce. Additionally, the quieter roads made for a relaxing start to the day.

Before long, I reached the familiar streets of Newton Stewart a place where my wife and I have enjoyed several holidays. Subsequently, the road led into the magnificent Galloway Forest. Sweeping bends and towering woodland made this section more than decent.

Changing scenery

Meanwhile, as the miles passed, the scenery changed again. As a result, once past Dalmellington, the landscape opened into wide moorland. I continued on the faster A-roads towards Beith, although the pace eased through Lochwinnoch and Linwood. Even then, traffic remained remarkably light.

Across the Erskine Bridge

Following the previous leg of the route, I took the Erskine Bridge across the Clyde. Traffic there slowed the journey, but only briefly.

A few miles after crossing the bridge, the roads became noticeably quieter and as I continued alongside Loch Lomond the scenery became more impressive with each mile. Reaching Arrochar at the head of Loch Long feels like where the Highlands truly begin and I paused for a rest and to enjoy the views.  The mountains surrounding Arrochar are magnificent and make quite a memorable impression. I stayed at Arrochar on my 2025 trip on my BMW F900 XR. I sometimes think when travelling on my own I enjoy that feeling of familiarity – perhaps it’s a sort of reassurance of having been that way before.

Scotland motorcycle road trip – dramatic mountains and a change of character

As I continued onwards, the bends tightened and the mountains rose dramatically. As a result, the ride took on a completely different feel .Climbing up and over the Rest and Be Thankful – the name given to the famous mountain pass and viewpoint on the A83 in Argyll and Bute, is always good. The viewpoint is 803 feet (245 meters) above sea level and provides exceptional views.  The descent towards St Catherine’s and Strachur is gentle and enjoyable and follows the shoreline of the loch. I headed to Inveraray to get something to eat and drink before doubling back to make the final leg to Strachur and the last few miles to the Kames Hotel. The view from the hotel was magnificent and peaceful and ended a very decent day.

Picture set 2

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Heading towards Fort William and a return to Loch Shiel.

The morning began with a short ride on damp and empty roads from the Kames Hotel to Portavadie to take the ferry to Tarbert.

This ferry crossing to Tarbert is one of Scotland’s finest shortcuts. It lasts only about 30 minutes but feels like part of the adventure. Watching the bike secured on deck while the Kintyre hills grew closer was a good reminder that a trip like this is about the journey and not just the destination.

Standing stones and quiet glens

Tarbert soon disappeared behind me as the A83 took me north beside the shores of Loch Fyne. Inverneil arrived quickly before I turned turned inland towards Kilmartin. This stretch is superb and relaxing. Long sweeping bends pass ancient standing stones, quiet glens and some of Scotland’s oldest landscapes.

Beyond Kilmartin the route climbs towards Kilmore. Traffic remained light and progress was effortless. The scenery became bigger with every mile, mixing wooded hillsides with distant mountain views. I would have to say that this road was magnificent and I want to go back and do it again!

Scotland motorcycle road trip and effortless riding

Oban was the busiest section of the day. Holiday traffic slowed the pace a little, but it didn’t last long. Soon enough the road opened again beside Loch Linnhe. Appin delivered exactly what every biker wants – superb fast sweeping bends, wide views and the mountains of Morvern providing mile after mile of effortless riding.

North of Appin the road became even more dramatic. The mountains closed in around Loch Leven before the route continued towards Fort William. Rather than stopping, I pressed on towards Lochailort. This quieter section feels very remote and traffic was just about non existent as the road flowed through the forests and rocky hillsides.

Another fine day

The final miles to Acharacle were the fitting end that I knew they would be to another superb day on the bike, but that wasn’t before I had headed onto Arisaig for a coffee and a bite to eat.

Arriving at the comfortable Loch Shiel Hotel made for a decent end to another decent day on the bike.

Picture set 3 

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Part 2 coming soon