Motorbikes – the places we go and the people we meet: Part 4
A curiously clean bike
I mentioned in Part 3 that I had brought my bike into the courtyard at the Hotel Sao Joao de Deus in Elvas. There was one other bike there – a UK registered Yamaha Tracer 7 (the 700cc Sport Tourer), it looked nice in it’s grey and blue factory colours. As I parked my bike up behind the Yamaha a couple of things struck me.
It looked good, had the same sort of engine as mine (a parallel twin) and looked like it was probably lighter and easier to move around a garage than my F900 XR. But the thing that really stood out to me was that it seemed impossibly clean for a UK bike travelling this far from home.
My bikes are always pristine when they’re in the garage but a European trip leaves them looking a right old mess.
That’s the way to do it
I didn’t have to wait too long for my curiosity to be satisfied. As I was putting my gear on F900 and getting ready to head off, I had the good chance to meet the owners – Alan and Di. Alan and Di are from Leeds, were a very decent couple and have got a great approach to biking in Iberia. They were a likeable couple who seemed to be a great example of folk who are getting out there and living their life.
Turns out they have a couple of bikes … this one lives out in Spain/Portugal on a permanent basis, then as and when the weather/their life suits then they get a cheap flight from Leeds pick up their bike and travel around and enjoy themselves – this trip was drawing to a close after being out there for a month..
Alan and Di – I take my hat off to you
They explained to me that they use a company with a number of different locations and where they can also leave their gear. The company they use is called IMT which has five storage locations (four in Spain and one in Portugal), they are located in Madrid, Barcelona, Malaga, Bilbao and Lisbon.
So it really is just a matter of them grabbing a cheap flight and picking their bike up.
I love travelling on my bike on my own, but as much as travel is about the places you go and the journey you take, it’s also about the people you meet and my day had been made better by meeting and chatting briefly with Alan and Di.
Oh … and Alan had indeed washed his bike.
Different strokes…
Another group of bikers had arrived late on (about 18:45) and it seemed they had been doing big miles and hadn’t by all accounts had a great day.
I saw one of the guys at breakfast, who didn’t seem as happy as someone on a motorbike trip ought to be and he told me they hadn’t walked more than 100 yards from the accommodation, so hadn’t seen anything of Elvas (I think that was down to their late arrival and one of the group had a leg injury).
Another long day?
They were heading off for Chaves after breakfast. If they were going to avoid motorways/autoestradas then they had another long day in front of them.
There’s no right way to travel as ever it’s what suits you but slogging out long days like that isn’t quite how I would do it.
Pictures from the Hotel Sao Joao de Deus
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Next stop was just down the road
I had decided to head for the town of Evora and stay a couple of nights. Evora was just a little over 50 miles away from Elvas … but I made a 170 mile or so route to get there. I headed out on the N246 to Arronches, then onto the N359 to Marvao, Castelo de Vide, Borba, Edondo and then onto Evora.
Weather was good and some of my route would take me through a national park – happily I was set for another fine day on the bike. Note: This is another post with a lot of pictures, and I’d say it’s well worth opening the pictures sets and scrolling through – Evora is a wonderful town.
On route to Evora
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A slight injury
I had taken a tin of chain lube with me and I had cable tied it to the rear frame.
Wouldn’t you know it, the first time I came to use it I caught my hand somewhere on the bike and took a little chunk out of the back of my right hand.
Out of reach
Foolishly my ‘first aid’ kit (basically a zip lock plastic bag with a few bits in it) was right at the bottom of my luggage and not very accessible at all.
I stopped at the next garage I came to, got a coffee and cake and the lady that served me provided me with a suitable plaster – and the chain was of course well lubricated for the next 600 miles or so. Click any image to open a scrollable picture gallery
More pictures from the ‘long way round’ to Evora
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Really decent accommodation and slow living
My accommodation in Evora was simple and well located. The hotel also had off road parking for my bike and came with some of the best and most personal service ever.
It was an absolute joy to stay at the Hotel Solar de Monfalim and I would stay there again at the drop of a hat. Once a fortress the place had a sort of old fashioned feel to it almost how I imagine an old colonial type set up to feel like. The place was once a fortress for the ‘noble class’ and had its first guest as long ago as 1892 – it has 26 rooms and just reeks of tradition and comfort, I really can’t tell you how much I loved my stay there.
Vagar
Evora is to be the City of Culture in 2027. The place is known for its rich history and culture. The towns candidacy for European City of Culture was based on the concept of “Vagar”, which sort of means the intangible heritage the region has and the idea of a ‘philosophy of slow living’.
Evora will be the fourth Portuguese city to host the European Capital of Culture title and I’d say just visit this place if you can.
Evora and the Chapel of Bones
Initially I had picked out Evora as a place to visit for no other particular reason than that I had read about the Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos) that is located next to the entrance of the Church of St. Francis. I gather that it is one of the best-known monuments in Evora and given that it’s only an hour or so from Lisbon is quite popular for day visits by folk who are staying there. There is no complication or mystery about why it gets its name … it’s because the internal walls are covered and decorated with human skulls and bones.
That in a nutshell is what prompted me to book a couple of nights in the town – and I’m so glad that I did.
I was so glad I stayed in Evora
I absolutely loved my stay in Evora. The town is the capital of Portugal’s south-central Alentejo region.
The historic centre of the town is impressive and in fact there is even an ancient Roman Temple of Evora (it’s also known as the Temple of Diana).
Evora is truly lovely and there was something about the place that’s quite difficult to capture or describe. It just has a really nice feel to it – very relaxed and casual but with a sort of elegance to the place as well.
The Chapel of Bones
I had decided that I would have a day off the bike. It was a Friday when I arrived in Evora and I decided that Saturday would be a non bike day and that I would go ‘full tourist’ for the day. I had intended that part of that plan would include a visit to the Chapel of Bones … but my impatience got the better of me and I decided that actually, I would make it my first port of call on Friday afternoon.
So what’s the story?
The Church of St. Francis, was built Franciscan monks in the late 16th century. Records show that by the 16th century there were over 40 cemeteries in and around Evora which were taking up valuable land. The monks decided that they would build the Chapel and relocate the bones from the cemeteries to the chapel.
We bones, are here, waiting for yours
Where are you going in such a hurry traveller? … do not advance your travel;
You have no greater concern than this one: that on which you focus your sight.
Recall how many have passed from this world, Reflect on your similar end,
There is good reason to reflect If only all did the same.
Ponder, you so influenced by fate, Amongst all the many concerns of the world,
So little do you reflect on death;
If by chance you glance at this place, Stop… for the sake of your journey,
The more you pause, the further on your journey you will be.
If any of that or indeed the pictures trouble you there’s a couple of Latin phrases above the altar that say
I die in the light and The day that I die is better than the day that I was born.
Pictures from the Chapel of Bones
Click any image to open a scrollable picture gallery
Friday afternoon scenes in Evora
Although I didn’t arrive in Evora until about 15:45, I still managed a decent wander around and walked a little over six miles that afternoon and evening
Click any image to open a scrollable picture gallery
What a fabulous moustache you have sir
Although I’m not a moustache man myself I was quite taken with the rather flamboyant, curled and carefully sculpted facial hair on the chap in the picture gallery below. Click any image to open a scrollable picture gallery
Not my cup of tea but …
Big Harley bagger’s like this are not to my taste but I can sort of appreciate them for what they are, and in their own way I find them pretty fascinating.
Click any image to open a scrollable picture gallery
A day off the bike, a wander and more people to meet
I had no plan for the day other than to have a slow lazy day off the bike. I enjoyed a decent breakfast before heading out around 09:15, and walked about four miles or so before I returned to the hotel to sip a cold beer and listen to the lunchtime game between Newcastle and Manchester City, before heading out again to wander around the sun drenched streets of the town.
Unnamed
The first person I met on Saturday was a chap out walking with his dogs. We struck up a conversation and as far as I could understand he worked on the land (digging and sifting clay).
He told me he was one of the last people doing it by hand and ruefully told me his job had largely been replaced by machines.
He was very clear that the machines were not as good as the traditional process as they couldn’t sift with the fine detail that the human eye could see and this meant there were minute imperfections in the final products. It was a failing on my part that I didn’t find out his name and I regret that.
John – the cyclist
Another fascinating person I met was John, a Portuguese national who was on a cycling trip – his English was first class and we had a good conversation about football. He was very familiar with the Premier League and knew plenty of detail about Manchester City.
The team he supports is Benfica and he told me they were having a torrid time when compared to their rivals Sporting Lisbon! We had a good chat about football, ticket pricing and the whole thing about dynamic pricing and he told me about his experience when he lived and worked in Boston. His cycle trip seemed impressive and we swapped a few travel stories like you do when you meet others on the road. John travelled light during the day and had his gear transported to his next accommodation by taxi.
Scott, Shelley & Shaun
The final folk I met and spoke with on Saturday were some fellow guests at the Solar de Monfalim.
Scott and Shelly were travelling in Spain and Portugal for a couple of weeks and had flown into Lisbon from their home state of Minnesota.
They were a lovely couple to speak to and were clearly very well-travelled.
Whilst we chatted we were joined by Shaun – an Irishman from Wexford who comes by Royal Appointment (it’s a long story and due to his company having the warrant of royal appointment). He could certainly talk the hind legs of a donkey, had endless anecdotes and he was very very funny.
He is the owner of a company called Botanica International (natural medical healing).
There were many things Shaun said that made me laugh and and he had a magical turn of phrase that had me laughing out loud but the one that will stay with me longest was when he said in his glorious Irish accent:
‘if you stand outside a chemist, the people coming out with the biggest bags are the most fcuked up’
I hadn’t expected to fall in love on holiday …
But I did – Evora you will always have a place in my heart.
After listening to the Manchester City game I headed back out and walked a further six miles or so – have a look through the extensive picture gallery and you might get an idea of why I loved this place so much and why I’m certain I’ll return someday.
Evora picture gallery
Click here for Part 5 – read about my journey down to Andaluscia and my in the pretty town of Ronda for three days and meet a guy from Chatanooga … and I ride some decent roads
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Fantastic. The Chapel of Bones looks amazing.